Can i use shimano shifters with sram derailleur

I seriously doubt that you have done any damage beyond abusing the chain. Might consider a new one with the new drlr install. Ok so I received my new rear derailleur in the mail today and installed it. My problem now is that it won't go into the highest gear smallest one. I've tried adjusting the H limit screw, but it unscrews all the way before it lines up with the gear. Also it still skips a gear in the middle, but I figure that might be because it misses this first gear and throws it off a little.

Any help would be appreciated. I think my thread got pushed off the new posts list when the week changed haha. Anyways I rode it in the mountains last Saturday and I could get to the lowest gear I have, but it still won't let me get into that little gear in the back.

Its been raining here lately, so I haven't gotten around to playing with it to see if I could get it to work. Trying to build up some ideas for when the rain lets up, then I'll go try some out. Darrenjs92ni Active Member. Joined: Aug I have a shimano cassette with a sram derailleur, and I can't think of a reason why it wouldn't work.

Your drlr has no clue what cass it is feeding chain to. It is the tooth profile on the cogs that gives results. I'm still unable to get the chain to shift onto the smallest gear on the cassette.

I adjusted the b-screw to where Alex says to in the video then tried adjusting the high limit screw but it won't move the derailleur far enough to the right to pop onto the smallest gear. Any help? The bike had a pretty rusty handlebar and cables so I decided to replace them.

Also I noticed when inspecting the bike that the front derailleur was so corroded it was amazing that it worked. All went fine until I installed the new rear derailleur. I can not get it to move across the gears to shift at all! Any Ideas what I screwed up? I am considering putting the old rear back on as it was not in bad shape? I personally would not run a Shimano rear derailleur on a 1X in cyclocross without a chain guide, no matter how tall and fat every other tooth on the chainring is.

I find that, while not always necessary, if I remove the shifter and spray the heck out of it with WD while leaving an old cable in it and shifting it both ways through the complete range with the cable under tension and then carefully lubricating it as you indicated, even the most stubborn worn and erratic old shifter can be brought back to life. An speed shifter will not correctly shift a speed rear derailleur even on an speed cassette … the cable pull for and speed rear derailleur are not the same.

Dear Steve, Thanks. Fortunately, I corrected my error a couple of days after posting, so the version that has been online since February 16 is accurate. Dear Lennard, The note from the reader with stiff shifting might also be related to a frayed cable.

If the shifters have seen enough service to need cleaning and lubing, there is a fair chance that the shift cable is past due for replacement. If the shift cable is kinked enough to allow even one fiber to come free, it will produce the kind of weird shift behavior the writer describes. Dear Lennard, Just read the article on the Shimano shifting troubleshooting. Shifting problems can come from poorly maintained cables and housings as well, and are all too frequently overlooked.

Sram's 'X-' ranges of mechs use actuation and need a Sram 'X-' shifter albeit a trigger of grip shifter. Shimano use a actuation on all their mechs so need shifter which oddly enough their shifters are. Sram also do a range of actuation shifters but they are not the 'X-' range.

The current Sram items are, IMO, very good. This topic has 9 replies, 8 voices, and was last updated 12 years ago by mk1fan. This is particularly apparent with jockey wheels, where cheaper derailleurs will often spin on basic steel bushings. Since everything up to this point has been tech-heavy, we can afford to be superficial for a moment. Higher-end derailleurs can be jewel-like in their quality, featuring all sorts of beautiful, polished panels and jazzy, bright anodising.

Jack Luke is the deputy editor at BikeRadar and has been fettling with bikes for his whole life. Always in search of the hippest new niche in cycling, Jack is a self-confessed gravel dork, fixie-botherer, tandem-evangelist and hill climb try hard.

Jack thinks nothing of bikepacking after work to sleep in a ditch or taking on a daft challenge for the BikeRadar YouTube channel. He is also a regular contributor to the BikeRadar podcast. With a near encyclopaedic knowledge of cycling tech, ranging from the most esoteric retro niche to the most cutting-edge modern kit, Jack takes pride in his ability to seek out stories that would otherwise go unreported. He is also particularly fond of tan-wall tyres, dynamo lights, cup and cone bearings, and skids.

Jack has been writing about and testing bikes for more than five years now, has a background working in bike shops for years before that, and is regularly found riding a mix of weird and wonderful machines. Jack can also often be seen zooming about with his partner aboard their beloved tandem, Cecil. Home Advice Buying Guides A complete guide to rear derailleurs. Related reading Road bike groupsets: everything you need to know Mountain bike groupsets: everything you need to know Best road bikes: how to choose the right one for you Best mountain bike: how to choose the right one for you.

Tom Wragg. Immediate Media. Generally speaking, road and mountain bike groupset components will not work with each other.